Trip recap

Endemics: 35/36 taxa seen

Successfully saw:

• 27/28 currently accepted endemics

• 8/8 potential future splits

• Taiwan Thrush was the only dip

Taiwan Partridge: 2 Dasyueshan, Km 23.5; also Firefly Hostel (not visited)

Taiwan Bamboo Partridge: 2 Shaolai Trail, Basianshan; Yushan

Swinhoe’s Pheasant: 4 from Km 23.5 to km 43 Lodge Trail

Mikado Pheasant: 2 Yushan, washroom block 3 km below summit

***Lanyu Scops Owl: 3 seen on Lanyu common on west coast of Island, both north and south of Hongtou Village

Taiwan Barbet: common throughout lowlands

***Maroon (Red) Oriole: 1 Huben, near Hushan Dam

Taiwan Blue Magpie: 4 on lawn at Huisun Forest Park

Taiwan Yellow Tit: seen twice, km 35 grounds of visitor centre and km 43 lodge trails, Dasyueshan

Chestnut-bellied Tit: 1 km up steps on Shaolai Trail, Basianshan

Styan’s Bulbul: common on east coast , Meilunshan Park, Hualien; near Ferry terminal for Lanyu Ferry, Longluan Lake, Kenting NP

Taiwan Bush Warbler: Dasyueshan km 50 trails, Yushan Tataka trails

***Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler: 1 seen Re’nai fields, several heard km 10 Dasyueshan

***Yellowish-flanked Bush-Warbler: Dasyueshan km 50 trails, Yushan Tataka trails

Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler: 1 seen (6+ heard) at Cinjing Farm, Re’nai

Taiwan Scimitar Babbler: Common, Dasyueshan km 0-15

Taiwan Cupwing: single bird seen at Dasyueshan Km 50

Rufous-crowned Laughingthrush: small flocks seen on three occasions at: km 23.5, 210 Road, km 43, Dasyueshan

Rusty Laughingthrush: small flocks seen on three occasions at Km 12, Km 31 Dasyueshan

Taiwan Hwamei: single phenotypically pure bird seen at Fushan Lane, Km 14, Dasyueshan

White-whiskered Laughingthrush: abundant in alpine areas, Km 50, Dasyueshan, Wuling and Yushan Tataka

Steere’s Liocichla: abundant at mid elevation montane forest, including Dasyueshan, Re’nai, Wushe Blue Gate

Taiwan Barwing: small groups seen on a couple of visits to Km 50 Trails, Dasyueshan (road behind washroom block)

Taiwan Fulvetta: common in alpine sites – Dasyueshan km 50 and Yushan

White-eared Sibia: abundant in mid elevation montane forest including Dasyueshan, Wushe Blue Gate Trail

Taiwan Yuhina: abundant at all montane sites, spanning high and mid elevations

***Golden Parrotbill: seen twice at Dasyueshan km 50 and at Yushan Tataka (generally most reliable here)

Flamecrest: Common at high elevation sites Dasyueshan, Taroko, Yushan

Taiwan Whistling Thrush: 3 seen at mid elevation at Dasyueshan (km 31-41), 1 seen near Cinjing Farm, Re’nai

Taiwan Thrush: ONLY DIP, easier in winter when breeding; at this season it is generally silent and is infrequently observed even by the top guided tours

Taiwan Shortwing: commonly heard at all high elevation sites (Dasyueshan Km 50, Taroko, Yushan) and Blue Gate Trail, only seen at Yushan

***White-browed Bush Robin: single birds seen at Dasyueshan Km 50, Yushan Tataka

Collared Bush Robin: abundant at high elevation sites (Dasyueshan Km 50, Taroko, Yushan)

***”Vivid” Taiwan Niltava: 1 Km 23.5, 2 Km 43 Anmashan Lodge, Dasyueshan,

***”Owston’s” Gray-headed Bullfinch: single bird seen Km 50, Dasyueshan

Other globally threatened species

(EN) Black-faced Spoonbill: 20 Hsinchu River Estuary

(VU) Chinese Egret: 1 Taixi Coastal Mudflats, 1 Hsinchu River Estuary

(VU) Fairy Pitta: 1 Huben, see Guide at Pitta Cafe

Notable species recorded by sound only:

Large Hawk-Cuckoo

Savanna Nightjar

Mountain Scops Owl

Total Species List Seen: 180

Days 10-11: Finishing Touches

With so much success seeing Taiwan’s landbird specialties over the first week, I now had the flexibility to reorganize my itinerary so that I could have a final crack at the Mikado Pheasant at Yushan a the crack of dawn.

Although it is possible to book lodging inside the park, due to the uncertainty of seeing Fairy Pitta the prior evening, I based myself once again in the valley. This required another 2.5 hour one way drive in early morning darkness up the winding mountain road. (Lack of traffic at this time is a plus, however.)

To my great pleasure, a spectacular pheasant pair were feeding openly on the lawn when I pulled up my car! I was able to watch them for several minutes although a crowd of tourists eventually slowly funneled them off the lawn and into the forest below. A truly special experience given the effort I had put into this species and one of the reasons I love birding so much.

After descending the mountain, I went to visit a temple at Zhushan which for several years had hosted a roosting Collared Scops Owl. Yes it is actively used by worshippers praying with incense.

In this photo, you can see the delicate gold filigree on which the owl usually roosts. Unfortunately, this would be my first dip, despite two attempts.

In the midday heat, I checked out the Taixi fish ponds. Reminiscent of Pak Thale in Thailand, these ponds can have different water levels but when the balance of mud to water is right, hundreds of shorebirds of multiple species can be seen in close range. The brilliantly rufous plumaged Lesser Sand Plovers and Curlew Sandpipers dominated, but I was pleased to find a few Broad-billed Sandpipers and Pied Avocets. Looking out onto the bay, a couple of Kentish Plovers (split from Snowy) skittered on the tideline while a few Eurasian Curlews rested on the beach. This Long-tailed Shrike was my only individual of this species for the trip.

In the afternoon I had singled out Maroon Oriole of the endemic Taiwan race as my lone target. This species is largely absent from most of the sites visited on this trip, but it is common in the Huben region.

I had identified a site near the Hushan Dam which had been reliable for the species but in an hour and a half of searching (albeit at less than ideal time of day), I merely saw Taiwan Barbet, Gray-capped Woodpecker and Rufous-faced Warbler among more common bulbuls and drongos. While moving onto a second stakeout, I paused briefly for an (introduced) White-rumped Shama when I heard a Maroon Oriole calling and then land in a bare branched tree!

In the evening, my intent was to try for Savanna Nightjar and Mountain Scops Owl at Dasyueshan. The Nightjar is an abundant species in the western coastal plain, where its nighthawk-like call can be heard even in the roofs of buildings in cities. I wasn’t, however, able to vantage point to look down onto the roof, nor could I find any near the road in the farm fields of lower Dasyueshan.

Mountain Scops Owls proved equally frustrating. At a couple of different instances I would hear birds calling right near the road in nearby trees but no combination of playback or light would get them to come out of the shadows and get me a visual. Quite a contrast to Ryukyu Scops!

By midnight, I gave up dejected.

On the final morning, I headed back up the middle sections of Dasyueshan for a final attempt at White-backed Woodpecker. This Eurasian species is widespread globally, but is fairly local in the Taiwan mountains. To my great delight, just south of km 31, I was able to hear and then spot a pair (#69) at around 9:30 am, after a few hours searching!

With morning hours dwindling, I decided to head down to the coastal hilltop viewing platform at Lingding near the city of Tongxiao to check out the hawk migration. Earlier in the week there had been a spectacle of hundreds of buzzards and accipiters of several species moving through the mountains, reminiscent of a scaled down version of the 13 species multi thousand bird flight I had at Bentsen State Park in Texas this March.

I would not be so fortunate this time as strong showers mid morning kept the birds grounded despite the lifting rainclouds and I was left with just a lone Black Kite in the first half hour. Two Chinese Sparrowhawks (#70) circled low an hour later – the most common raptor at this season and my primary reason for visiting.

This would be my final target, and after a failed second attempt at the Collared Scops Owl in Zhushan, I spent the afternoon combing the estuaries near Hsinchu for wetland birds.

Most exciting here was a good look at an endangered Chinese Egret, a lingering flock of 20 Black-faced Spoonbills and a Terek Sandpiper among a good selection of regular shorebirds.

Retracing my steps north, I found that a week later most of the waterfowl had moved on at Longluan Lake, but a flooded farm field just north next to the irrigation canal hosted a Green Sandpiper among a large number of Wood and Sharp-tailed Sandpipers.

As twilight set in at Taoyouan, a mere ten minute drive from the airport, I closed my Taiwan list with a small flock of familiar Sanderlings among the Lesser Sand Plovers.

Glorious views of the coastal range in sunset awaited me as I landed home in Vancouver. On to the next adventure!

Day 9: Yushan and Huben

Today’s originally scheduled first destination was Firefly Lodge in Nantou. This mountain hostel has run a feeder for both Swinhoe’s Pheasant and Taiwan Partridge for several years but I was able to skip this thanks to the already satisfying views I had in Dasyueshan. I stayed the night in a more central location along the main highway, with the intent of trying Yushan for Mikado.

Unfortunately, Yushan NP is an onerous 2.5 hour winding drive up narrow roads from my city hotel. This meant a 4 am start to arrive early enough for dawn activity.

Nearly as soon as I got out of the car, I finally got countable, albeit brief looks at a female Taiwan Shortwing. Quite a struggle to get onto this little bamboo specialist. A trio of Pacific Swifts soared overhead. This was followed by my second sighting of Golden Parrotbill, here at its most reliable location.

I met a tour group who was birding the mountain and helped them get onto the Parrotbill. In return, the helpful leader let me know about a stakeout for Mikado Pheasant, which they had seen at 6 am at the second washroom before the summit. When I quickly descended to search for it, unfortunately there was no sign of the bird. I met a park naturalist who spoke good English and let me know that the pheasants often came out onto the grass at dawn by the washroom block, even though they are not fed. On rainy days, they may also come out in the afternoon.

Seeing as it would be essentially a fool’s errand to linger, I reluctantly decided to descend the mountain now, search for a few targets and then make the long return trip for the pheasant again the next morning.

Tsengwen Reservoir, a couple of hours down the mountain from Yushan but enclosed by a lovely hilly vista, hosts a sizeable population of Russet Sparrow, an East Asian relative of the House Sparrow which is somewhat local in Taiwan.

At Dapu Lakeshore Park, I pass over dozens of Eurasian Tree Sparrows before I spot what appears to be a female House Sparrow (but can’t be because House doesn’t occur on Taiwan). I deduce that this must be a Russet Sparrow, since Eurasian Tree doesn’t display the sexual dimorphism of the other two species! Soon I find a couple of Russet Sparrow males and admire their crisp rusty caps.

Also at a nearby overlook is a White Wagtail of the local Black-backed race.

Just over an hour’s drive southwest, the Pheasant-tailed Jacana reserve in Guantian not only features the latter species in its crisp alternate plumage, but has some farm fields reliable in spring and early summer for Oriental Pratincole.

Unlike in Kenting, I am immediately rewarded with a scope view of around 30 birds in a single field. Also here is the endemic race of Ring-necked Pheasant, a multitude of Oriental Skylarks and more than 50 Pacific Golden Plovers flying overhead.

With time permitting, I decide to try my luck at Huben for Fairy Pitta. Now sadly endangered in Taiwan, around 25 pairs of these gorgeous birds persist in giant bamboo stands near the small village of Huben. Here, the locals have created a Pitta Cafe, which offers a bed for travelers as well as guiding. Rather than search aimlessly for the dwindling pittas, and given that precise locations are suppressed for conservation reasons in EBird (thanks to their sensitive species policy), I opt to pay 3000 NTD ($130 CAD) for private guiding.

One of the key causes of decline was the flooding of much of the habitat to build the Hushan reservoir for domestic water supply, between 2002 and 2016. This was exacerbated by a series of natural disasters in the wintering grounds around 2010-11. Before then, the village, which features a giant Pitta statue and has built a tourist industry around the bird, had plenty of birds easily found. Nowadays guides must travel further afield. The population decline is persistent, and their demise from the island sadly seems just a matter of time.

The guide, an older chain smoker who speaks little English, leads me by scooter while I follow in my car. We check out three known sites – each 20 minutes apart along narrow lanes. The birds have just returned over the previous week from their wintering grounds in the Philippines so I am a little early for peak chances of seeing them.

On the flip side according to researchers, it is best for birds to be visited in late April or early May before nesting begins and birds can be disturbed.

On the first try, we hear absolutely nothing. On the second, we hear a distant bird, which cannot be tracked down. Then we follow a ravine where we find another guide (without a client) who lets my guide know he too has struck out. On the third try, we hit pay dirt. A bird calls from high up in a giant bamboo, perches out in the open for 30 seconds (no photo, sadly!) and vanishes into the forest. We decide to leave it alone to minimize disturbance to this “angel of the forest” as the locals call them. I feel at once very fortunate and melancholy to see this bird that may disappear from the island in my lifetime.

Day 8: Back to Mainland Taiwan: Kenting Wetlands

Having seen all the desired targets at Flycatcher Creek, I opted this morning to head to the lighthouse at the north end of the island to search for potential migrant Buntings as well as Lesser Coucal. This is an hour walk from the harbour, giving me plenty of time to walk back and forth to make the first 9:30 am return sailing to Taitung.

Like the southern road, this was a hilly walk. Flooded rice paddies hosted Cattle Egrets, while Gray and Eastern Yellow Wagtails patrolled the berms. A number of Lanyu’s feral goats frolicked on the rocky beach – while a couple of males butted heads atop a rock. The most common species here were Brown-eared Bulbuls, which are conspicuous and vocal on wires and bushes.

Around half hour in, I first hear and then see a Lesser Coucal (#62) well up on the hillside, standing out from the more widespread Greater (not found here) with its matte rather than glossy brown wings and dark rather than red eye.

The islanders are having their annual race so the road gets quite busy by 8 an. I’m not sure if this is why I don’t see any sign of migrants but the grassy field and rocks at the tip don’t deliver on this occasion.

Boarding the ferry at Kaiyouan is a bit chaotic. It turns out there are three different ferries at two different docks in the harbour with no English signs. Luckily one of the staff is able to read my ticket and point me in the right direction. Unfortunately I have no more luck with pelagics on the return leg than a day earlier.

After a satisfying spicy clam soup lunch, I head to the coast near Kenting NP to look for shorebirds such as Oriental Pratincole.

A good 1.5 hour drive later, I am at the Checheng estuary, scanning the riverbank for roosting shorebirds. It’s great to see species that until now I had only seen in basic plumage showing off their bright spring colours. Most numerous were the brilliant rufous Lesser Sand Plovers and Red-necked Stints. Gray-tailed Tattler, certainly more sedately coloured than the others, was a nice find as it had been a lifer just a few months earlier at the esplanade in Brisbane, Australia.

Best of all was a small group of White-shouldered Starlings (#63) continuing my strong luck with starlings on this trip.

Moving onto Longluan Lake, I was too late to enter into the nature park proper (it closes at 5 pm) but I scanned the lake from the south where I found a Greater Painted Snipe and then the fields north of the lake picked out a Long-toed Stint among the more numerous Sharp-tailed Sandpipers. The pratincoles, however, would have to wait for another day.

At dusk, a number of Savannah Nightjars called in the fields, but to my frustration, I was unable to get a visual on any of them.

Day 7: Ship voyage to Lanyu

The island of Lanyu is a 2 hour ferry ride (or short plane ride) off Taitung. Inaccessible to the general public until 1967, it is increasingly popular among tourists for snorkeling and scuba diving.

In comparison to the rest of Taiwan, Lanyu is inhabited primarily by indigenous Tao people of Filipino ancestry. Before Japanese colonial rule, they lived in subterranean houses to protect from frequent typhoons! A few of these houses remain to this day, but are no longer used. Luckily April is outside the midsummer typhoon season, but ferry service is regularly disrupted by severe weather later on in the year.

Among birders, the attraction of Lanyu is its endemic Lanyu Scops-owl (a potential future split from Ryukyu Scops). It is joined by a pair of Philippine species not on mainland Taiwan (Philippine Cuckoo-Dove, Lowland White-eye). Lesser Coucal, Whistling Green Pigeon and Japanese Paradise Flycatcher are also more common here than anywhere else in Taiwan.

Although I reserved online, I still had to arrive early at the ticket office to pick up the formal tickets. For the first (7:30) sailing, it’s a tight window. The office opens at 6:45 and you’re expected to be on board at least 15 minutes before departure. It seemed like there was plenty of space on board for last minute ticket purchases despite it being a Saturday! There is also a second afternoon sailing if you miss the first one.

Seats are first come first served, but I chose to sit outside to look for two potential pelagic lifers, Streaked Shearwater and Bulwer’s Petrel. The wind was pretty blustery, but still warm enough to be pleasant. Thankfully, despite rocking waves I did not get seasick (typically, it’s worse doing the figure 8 motion when stopped) although I did take gravol to be safe.

Lanyu doesn’t have hotels, so guests must stay at homestays, often cabins or side buildings that locals build to host tourists. Dodowu homestay is on Booking.com, which is critical given the need to book in advance. Most options are on exclusively Chinese websites (although google translate can be helpful) and usually require sending money orders internationally for deposits.

As you approach the island, you see its impressively mountainous peaks covered in lush forest. Lanyu has only one major road across the centre. The people nearly exclusively live on the 38 km coastal ring road. For transportation, few rental cars are available. Instead most tourists travel by scooter, but a motorcycle license is required by most renters.

I opted for a bicycle having been refused the option of hiring a scooter without experience, but the island is extremely hilly and this option doesn’t really give a chance to see the majority of the island.

Flycatcher Creek is located around 10 km from Kaiyuan harbour, a 2+ hour bike ride given the elevation gain. On the way I scored a surprise Chestnut-cheeked Starling (#56) by Hongtouyou Guesthouse. While uncommon in Taiwan, primarily Japanese and Philippine species seems to be regular at this site according to ebird.

I certainly envied the speeding scooters that the locals would ride, especially in the hot humid weather. I had a flying fish lunch and a lemon beverage before the final climb up to the site.

Flycatcher Creek, dry at this season, is reached by a steep descent down into the rocky riverbed. All the targets can be seen by following two tributaries a few hundred m in each direction.

It was still quiet midday heat when I arrived but as I waited, first an inquisitive male Japanese Paradise Flycatcher (#57) posed with its impressive elongated tail feathers, followed by a small flock of Whistling-Green Pigeons (#58), and lastly a small flock of Lowland White-eyes (#59).

The Philippine Cuckoo-Doves (#60) began to call in late afternoon from the SW ravine, perched far above in the canopy. I got on a couple of birds in flight, displaying the distinctive long brown tails of this genus.

Although many people do see the Scops Owl on a day roost, I was not so fortunate. Luckily after dinner – at the same restaurant as lunch, just 1.5 km away from the ravine – I was able to hear my first owl near town, near the road.

Using tape, I got the bird to fly in and then got my flashlight on it posing on a close snag. (#61) Unfortunately, night photography is pretty difficult solo, so no photo, but I found this owl impressively numerous and confiding on the walk back to the hotel, seeing three and hearing many more. Certainly no need to make it all the way to Flycatcher Creek for this species, especially if travelling by foot.

Given the dark roads and busy traffic, I slowly walked the bike back to the hotel for a few hours. The extra effort made the experience of seeing this special owl all the more precious. With a 7/11 finally on the island (new in the last five years!) I was able to grab a snack and a guava drink before finally making it back to my room.

Day 6: Dramatic Taroko Pass and Gorge

Cingjing Farm

Targets: Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler, Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler

Having arrived in darkness, I wake to my first view of the town of Re’nai, a steep hilled mix of remnant farmland enclosed by settlement. In the edges of this farmland were a mix of dense weedy fields and vinous tangles which shelter my two target species this morning.

Just as the sun began to rise, I make my way to the roadside south of Guanhu Siji Minsu B&B, following a recent EBird report of the Bush Warbler.

Less than 5 minutes later, I hear a Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler (#51) singing in the hillside below the road and find it with little effort. (Much easier in the early morning!) A Hwamei also came close, giving me hope for a better photo but then revealed itself to be a hybrid.

Returning to Cingxing Farm, a large experimental farm open to tourists, I circle by foot on some narrow lanes below the farm proper to look for the Scimitar Babbler. The two note whistle carries a long distance, but the birds themselves remain frustratingly hidden from sight.

In the meantime, numerous Steere’s Liochichlas move through the bushes while more exciting species such as Fire-breasted Flowerpeckers and a surprising number of Eyebrowed Thrushes sit in the upper branches.

Panoramic view down the slope from Cingjing

Around an hour into my search, I finally pick out a distant bird and get a record photo. (#52)

Having wrapped up ahead of schedule, I return to the hotel for a rare chance to take advantage of the complementary breakfasts generally included in accommodation in Taiwan.

Blue Gate Trail, Wushe

Target: White-browed (Taiwan) Shortwing

Shortly downslope of the Wushe police station, this site follows an old muddy track for several kilometres through some good broadleaved forest. The patches of bamboo are good habitat for Shortwings, while the forest itself hosts a wide array of mid-elevation species of which I saw Rufous-faced Warblers and heard Taiwan Partridge. Taiwan Yellow Tit and Rusty Laughingthrush are also among the specialties birders look for here, although I did not see either.

The one Shortwing I found was initially tantalizingly close, so much so that I could see the contrast of its silhouette moving through the foliage, yet in nearly half hour of peering into the the dark dense undergrowth, it continued to call persistently, moving just beyond my reach.

I decide to continue along the trail but do not come across another Shortwing nor did the original bird still sing when I retrace my steps to the car. Time of day matters!

Taroko Pass

Target: Alpine Accentor

What was left of the morning and afternoon, I would now devote to Taroko Pass, a beautiful scenic drive that three hours later leads into the famous Taroko Gorge.

At Wuling overlook, often considered the prime stakeout on the island for accentors, heavy gusts of wind make birding difficult.

I quickly descend to the Hehuan lodge parking lot where I am taken aback by the area’s popularity. Not only is the main parking lot so full that there are multiple double parked cars blocking people’s exits, but for a km past the lodge, cars are strewn along the side of the highway.

Despite the area not being set up for the current volume of tourists, a good number of the people are hiking so the short trails around the lodge aren’t quite as busy as the number of cars would suggest.

Common species here include White-whiskered Laughingthrush, Taiwan Rosefinch and Collared Bush Robin while Asian House Martins nest in the eaves of buildings like Barn Swallows often do back home. I don’t however see any White-browed Bush Robins (often recorded here).

Despite some recent sightings of Accentors around the lodge grounds, I can’t help but feel that the foot traffic may have reduced the odds of its’ showing. Luckily, there is a new site around 1.5 km further down the road, where an overlook sits atop an expansive steep scree slope. Here, I hear and then see a pair of accentors (#53) moving up the slope until they come feed right in the parking lot!

With time tight in the afternoon and a six hour drive ahead to the port town of Taitung for tomorrow’s sailing to Lanyu, I opt to skip the Russet Sparrow stakeout in favour of more time exploring Taroko Gorge, one of the world’s steepest gorges.

On my descent, I see lots of construction ongoing from the 6.0 earthquake that had occurred the day before my arrival on the island. Traffic was only allowed to cross for 10 minutes every hour, but I definitely lucked out with just a 15 minute delay! As I cross under the rocky overhangs above the road, I can’t help but wonder about their ongoing stability. Being on a geological fault line can be interesting.

Given its prominence as the number one tourist site in Taiwan outside of Taipei, it was no surprise to see dozens of buses bringing tourists – more unexpected is that because many of the turns are exceptionally difficult for buses to pass, they need to stop for minutes at a time at passing areas, delaying traffic.

My personal dislike of congestion in national parks aside, the dramatic marble cliffs overlooking roaring silt laden water certainly is worthy of its fame.

Unfortunately there are just a handful of pullouts on the drive so it’s hard to capture the full experience as a solo driver. On the flip side, there are quite a number of hikes, perhaps the most popular of which is the Swallow’s Grotto, but time didn’t permit on this occasion.

Meilunshan Park

Targets: Styan’s Bulbul, Brown-headed Thrush

By 5 pm, I make it to Meilunshan Park,a green space in the city of Hualien, with the goal of seeing the wintering Brown-headed Thrushes that had departed most of the island weeks earlier but linger on here.

This species, which I had missed on my opening day in Jinshan, primarily breeds in Japan along with the Russian Sakhalin and Kuril islands north of Hokkaido.

This also was my first chance to see the endemic Styan’s Bulbul (#53), only found on the eastern and southern coastal plain of Taiwan and abundant here in the park.

Like the Eyebrowed Thrush, Brown-headed Thrushes are usually arboreal and I looked carefully for any fruiting trees which might attract them. While I waited, I watched Taiwan Barbets move through the canopy while umpteen Japanese White-eyes and Morrison’s Fulvettas ventured lower down in the mid foliage.

The thrushes are generally silent on their wintering grounds with the exception of a robin-like flight call. Knowing this call proved essential, as I eventually found a pair, one seen well after around 90 minutes.

I finally wrap up the day with a nice dinner at the Dongdamen Night Market. They have English menus where you can circle your dining preferences by marker – convenient for tourists given that the waiters spoke no English as usual! I had the fried squid with basil with a couple of rice cakes.

A three hour drive later along double lane urban roads (no expressways on this side of the island), I arrive at my Taitung hotel excited for tomorrow’s boat trip.

Day 5: Adieu to Dasyueshan

I began my day at 4:30 with the goal of climbing back up the mountain to km 23.5 for dawn. My quarry today was a common but shy species, the Taiwan Partridge. For many years, local photographers have set up a feeding site in early morning for this species just above the bend on a big switchback.

Signs clearly indicate this practice is now banned, but obviously this is not enforced. Perhaps somewhat dubious ethically to partake but a treat to see these species out in the open. There is also a feeder setup at Firefly Guesthouse in Nantou Province, but this one is certainly more conveniently situated.

By the time I got out of the car, a male Swinhoe’s had already arrived on the scene strutting in front of a row of excited photographers. It raised its bill vertically in the air and flapped its wings vigorously, almost reminding me of a Ruffed Grouse, minus the drumming sound of course!

I waited patiently for it and a couple of squirrels to exit the scene – and probably around 40 minutes later, a Taiwan Partridge (#44) slowly creeped onto the scene, moving its head side to side to survey the spectators. Eventually it settled in and fed for several minutes to my delight.

At 6:15, I rushed up to the park gate which opens at 6:30 so that I could return to the summit for the Mikado. On the way, I stumbled across another Partridge – seen naturally this time!

The plan today was to look for the remaining two targets, White-browed Bush-Robin, and Taiwan (White-browed) Shortwing first, then wait with the crowd for the pheasant later on in the morning.

I heard the bush robin nearly from the beginning of the trail, but it led me on a merry chase as it moved quickly through some dense pine clusters before I finally got onto it at the end of the trail near the gate. (#45).

The Shortwing stakeout on the 230 road (now recorded likely the same bird for the third consecutive day) was less cooperative, remaining frustratingly persistent in song while hiding just out of sight on the steep slopes.

By 9:00, I settled in for a couple of hour wait Mikado stakeout at the visitor centre, but it was not to be. I would have to wait until Yushan for my next chance.

I had more luck, however, at the Km 41 Waterfall, picking up a Little Forktail (#46) scampering around the moss covered rocks around the falls.

Dasyueshan 0-15

Targets: Taiwan Hwamei, Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler, Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler

By lunchtime, I had three species left to find and around five hours to look for them. I decided to first try for the Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler at km 12, where I had heard a couple but been able to track them down a day earlier. The habitat here is a mix of dense vinous secondary growth and open farmland.

This time, I was not even able to get onto a singing bird, however, and on neither occasion did I hear any Black-necklaced Scimitar Babblers. I decided to just move onto Fushan Lane at km 14, which currently is the best site for pure Taiwan Hwameis.

Highlighting the importance of planning birding trips with multiple backup sites for each species whenever possible, I would be able to look for the latter two in the Cinqing Farm area, leaving Taiwan Hwamei as the singular most important bird of the afternoon.

This narrow rural pathway, away from the tourist traffic heading up Dasyueshan, heads down into a riverside valley with a small village.

Birds which had been quiet and inactive on my arrival at 3 pm started to move about and flock an hour later. Soon I was recording species such as Black-naped Monarchs and Gray-capped Woodpeckers among the ubiquitous fulvettas and white eyes.

A Striated Prinia perches on a wire

It took nearly 2 hours, as hope was beginning to fade, for the first Hwamei to appear, just south of the bridge a good 3 km down the lane. The dense vegetation cost me a focused shot of the bird, but I could clearly see the lack of any eyebrow, indicating this is one of the countable pure birds (phenotypically, at least).

From Dongshi, it is a 2.5 hour drive to Ren’ai. Driving the winding mountain roads at night took extra care given the need to let aggressive tailgaters pass yet overtake the slow moving trucks but I eventually made it to the hotel at 8:30.

Ren’ai Guesthouse, captured the next morning

Day 4: Back down the mountain to Huisun

My plan for the fourth day, much like the third was to set out in the early dawn light to the summit parking lot looking for the Mikado. I slowly scanned each clearing on the way up, turning up this Oriental Cuckoo (#39) as a consolation prize. This summer migrant is quite frequently heard at Dasyueshan at all elevations, but not usually perched as cooperatively as this one!

With fewer targets this time around, I decided to spend the first three hours of the day waiting for the pheasant. The noisy squeals of the Taiwan Rock Macaques echoed through the trees.

At 9 am, the pheasant was nowhere to be seen and with other birds left to find, I decided to cut bait and move down the mountain to search for some of the species that I had missed in the lower elevations on the first day.

Km 41-23 Journey Down the mountain

At km 41, I stopped at a little waterfall which is known to host a pair of Little Forktails, a cute mountain river specialist currently considered to be part of the Old World Flycatcher family.

While I searched in vain, I instead found a pair of Ashy Woodpigeons (#40). This one had got away 4 years earlier in Doi Inthanon in Thailand, so a nice makeup find.

Further down the mountain still at Km 31 I got onto the Rusty Laughingthrush that I had looked for on the Anmashan trail. (#41)

Right before a big tunnel, a large group of lenses pointed into a tree let me know there was probably a good bird around! Nature photography is very popular in Taiwan and it is not rare to see 20+ people around an interesting bird.

In this case, I had stumbled into a stakeout for Collared Owlet (#42). Owlets in Asia are Glaucidium just like our New World Pygmy Owls. The bird seemed to be present at the same roost daily during my time at Dasyueshan and was consistently surrounded by paparazzi. I spent a few minutes observing it through my scope and then watched it fly across the road closer for better photos.

To my dismay, one of the photographers was regaling a story about the beautiful Mikado Pheasant he had photographed in the summit clearing, just 20 minutes after I had given up! Serves me right for being impatient I suppose. Decisions, decisions.

The midday sun was getting hot and muggy in lower Dasyueshan and I had a choice ahead. Either I could try to eke out one of the three missing skulkers in the afternoon heat (surely with significant risk of striking out) or I could go for a near sure thing in the Taiwan Blue Magpie at Huisun Forest now then return and do the lowlands the following morning.

The latter seemed like a no brainer even with the 3 hour round trip drive. This also gave a chance to refuel, grab a bite to eat and cut down onto the following day’s relocation drive to Re’nai.

The sharply winding mountain roads between Dongshi and Huisun are extremely slow, especially when you inevitably get stuck behind a truck with no passing lane, but I made it to the Forest Reserve just after 4 with plenty of sunlight left.

Hillside view from the road to Huisun

Huisun Forest Reserve

Malayan Night Herons here pose tamely on the lawn and Taiwan Blue Magpies (#43) are only slightly less conspicuous.

An initial survey of the forest trails didn’t draw fruit but it turned out I was looking in the wrong place. When I returned to the car, a number of spectacular Taiwan Blue Magpies were boldly wandering around the shrubs and trees bordering the parking lot and the adjacent large grassy field.

I then wrapped up my day at Pear Story Guesthouse, a lovely farmland homestay hosted by a Taiwanese couple with limited English but who served me some tea and corn cobs for a snack. Situated around 10 km northwest of Dongshi on a maze of roads only navigable thanks to GPS, the verandah offers an expansive view over the surrounding hill country although I was far too late in the evening to truly appreciate it at its best.

Day 3: Hiking Dasyueshan’s Summit

Km 50 Trails

Targets: Mikado Pheasant, Oriental Cuckoo, Eurasian Nutcracker, Taiwan Barwing, Taiwan Bush Warbler, Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler, Taiwan Cupwing, White-browed (Taiwan) Shortwing, Flamecrest, Taiwan Fulvetta, White-browed Bush-Robin, Collared Bush-Robin, Golden Parrotbill, Taiwan Rosefinch, Gray-headed Bullfinch

I began the morning at the highest elevations of Dasyueshan, known locally as Xiaoxueshan, hoping to find some of the specialties that weather didn’t permit the day before.

While the ultimate prize remained the Mikado Pheasant, which some local photographers advised occasionally visited the parking lot and visitor centre grounds, I decided early on not to devote early morning peak activity solely to this pursuit.

Among the species here are a number of notorious skulkers, so it is critical to search in morning when birdsong is at its highest.

There are really only two short trails needed to see the birds here. The Shenmu trail leads above the visitor centre less than a km before a gate blocks off further access to a restricted area. I was told this path was the area to look for pheasants if they were not in the lodge vicinity. It is possible to circle the lake and do a loop via the Xueshan Giant Tree trail, but I did very well without doing this.

Pagoda overlooking the lake, Shenmu Trail

The 230 Forest road cuts behind the washroom block and descends the mountain through some bamboo stands productive for bamboo specialists. I focused on the first 500 m as this was exceptionally productive.

Doing short trails allowed me to return frequently to the lodge grounds throughout the day in the hope that the pheasant might appear. Unfortunately, this strategy proved futile. By mid morning, a throng of photographers had gathered in patient anticipation of the pheasant’s arrival. However, by 11 crowds of general interest tourists arrived via tour buses and all chance of the pheasant arriving was lost.

Luckily the forest birding proved more fruitful. In less than a couple of hours on the Shenmu trail, lifers arrived in quick succession.

White-whiskered Laughingthrushes (#26) boldly forage for scraps around the visitor centre grounds.

A Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler (#27) was next, briefly posing in an open perch relatively fearlessly for a bush warbler. 

Next, a Flamecrest (#28), the endemic Taiwan kinglet, briefly paused its hyperkinetic flitting to settle on a lichen draped branch.

The Taiwan Bush Warbler (#29) was more challenging to locate, despite its powerful song. Looking through the pine needles, it eventually gave itself up.

Before I had even finished the photo op, the raucous call of a Eurasian Nutcracker (#30) rattled across the forest, so strongly reminiscent of BC’s Clark’s Nutcracker that I didn’t even need to check my recordings for ID!

On the way back to the carpark, a pair of Taiwan Fulvettas (#31) flitted in the underbrush.

Perhaps best of all a Taiwan Cupwing (#32) called from a gully over a hill and after climbing to the top of the ridge, I was able to find it settling along the base of a tree trunk.

This was better luck than I had expected, despite the MIA pheasant. While I waited in the parking lot, a pair of Taiwanese Rosefinches (#33) fed mere feet away on the lawn. Surely habituated birds but what a stunner!

Collared Bush-Robins (#34) were a common sight, resting on the rocky steps around the parking lot.

Continuing on to the 230 Road, I was excited to hear some chattering and find it coming from a small band of Golden Parrotbills (#35). This uncommon bamboo specialist is more frequently seen at Yushan in the south than here.

A Ferruginous Flycatcher showed well here too.

The exceptionally recalcitrant, soon to be split Taiwan (White-browed) Shortwing called from just up the slope, but frustratingly out of sight.

On the return I ran into a small group of Taiwan Barwings (#36). This habit of generally travelling in flocks links barwings to other members of the proliferate Laughingthrush family that is so prominent in Asian forests.

With so much success at the summit, I decided to return to the lodge for a hike before lunch. The mixed broadleaved and cypress forest below the lodge offered a chance for a different species set, in particular the Rusty Laughingthrush.

Liochichlas and Sibias are the ubiquitous birds of this elevation, continuing to be active even at midday. The only Laughingthrush present at this time however was the Rufous-crowned.

This trail is right in the altitudinal overlap zone for Swinhoe’s and Mikado Pheasants. A female pheasant gave me momentary hope for the latter before its red feet confirmed its identity as a Swinhoe’s.

Being on a ridge, hikes at Dasyueshan no matter how short, go up and down multiple flights of stairs.

I was able to find two Taiwan Yellow Tits (#38), which are a specialty of the mid elevational band that extends from the park gate at km 35 up to the lodge at km 43.

The trail leads to a giant cypress tree, often referred to as a divine tree. Once revered by the local indigenous people, much of Taiwan’s cypress forest was logged by the Japanese during the colonial era. Yet a few of these trees, which can live 3000 years and grow 40 m in height, persist and are proudly marked on the trail maps.

Looping back up to the cottage block just south of the restaurant, a row of trees sheltered a couple of Eyebrowed Thrushes (#39) which flushed into a nearby treetop. This species looks a lot like some “pacific” American Robins, but has much more defined supercilial and moustachial stripes. I was particularly excited to see this species as it is a local migrant in Taiwan mountains and less reliable in where it can be found than most of the resident species.

Saving the best for last, from the restaurant deck I heard and then located three Brown Bullfinches (#40). This widespread species ranges from the Himalayas to Malaysia but in Taiwan it can be a tricky species to run into. The key feature is the gray cap lacking the white edging around the bill and eye of Gray-headed.

After lunch (of similar low quality to dinner but improved by the crunchy refreshment of Chinese pears) it was back up the mountain.

It should be noted that at Dasyueshan you need to be careful with how much driving you do, because it’s a 1.5 h 40+ km journey to the nearest gas station (one way!) for refuelling. In midday traffic, each narrow curve needs to be taken carefully and the helpfully placed mirrors checked for oncoming vehicles. Luckily it’s just 7 km up to the summit from the lodge, but you wouldn’t want to descend too often, for example, to the feeding site at km 23.

The afternoon mist began to block the morning sunshine, but thankfully didn’t bring any of the heavy rain from a day earlier.

At the summit, I settled in at the parking lot, dreaming of an afternoon pheasant. A number of photographers had the same idea. Among more than a dozen locals was a Californian who’d hired a private guide for a Taiwan tour.

While we waited I saw a Reeve’s Muntjac, a type of deer, and a Gray-headed Bullfinch (#41), which turned out to be the only sighting of this species for the trip to wrap up a superlative third day.

Day 2: Up in the Mountains

Rising over 2800 m above sea level and offering access to a diverse transect of habitats, Dasyueshan (Great Snow Mountain) is Taiwan’s most visited birding site.  Its impressive bird list includes the vast majority of the island’s endemics, yet its weather can be notoriously unpredictable. As a result I budgeted three days to explore the region.

Basianshan: Shaolai Trail

Target: Chestnut-bellied Tit

As feared, the day opens with a steady rain, so I make the decision to stay at lower elevations in an adjacent valley, Basianshan, where Chestnut-bellied Tit can be found. This species is quite scarce at Dasyueshan.

The winding road takes me to a steep walled valley overlooking the Dajia River. A massive suspension bridge takes hikers across the river to begin the ascent up the mountain.  I notice an electronic counter offering a warning sign, only ten people are allowed on the bridge at one time. Not sure what that says about the stability of this massive bridge!

Almost as soon as I get off the bridge I notice a small partridge venture across the road – Taiwan Bamboo Partridge!  (#6) A solid find as the species can be quite shy despite being quite numerous. The bird freezes for a moment, and then, turning in my direction, quickly flushes into the brush, never to be seen again.  

From here, I acclimatize to the classic Chinese trail construction, which unlike our switchbacks, is flights of stairs directly ascending steep climbs.  

Bird song is in the air and I’m quickly spotting common low hillside species such as Collared Finchbill (#7) and Morrison’s Fulvetta (#8).

Collared Finchbills

After nearly a km into the hike (around ¼ of the loop), I hear the classic Parid chip notes reminiscent of our Chickadees and get onto a backlit Chestnut-bellied Tit. (#9) I stay with a pair for several minutes as they flit up and down the tree branches, then make my way back to the village.

On my return, I take the opportunity to sample the classic convenience store meal at 7-11.  These stores are available across the country and many are open 24-7. The great convenience is the selection of premade meals available to heat in their microwave and eat in store.  

They also serve made to order coffee. While few people in rural areas speak much English, helpfully most signs include both English and Chinese text so it is possible to communicate by pointing to options on the laminated menu on their desk.  

It’s still pretty early and the clouds seem to be lifting so I decide to try Dasyueshan’s lower reaches, around an hour back to the west.

Dasyueshan: Foothills, Km 5-15

Targets: White-bellied Pigeon, Dusky Fulvetta, Taiwan Hwamei, Brownish-flanked Bush-Warbler, Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler, Striated Prinia

The lower stretches of the Dasyueshan road are rolling farmland interspersed with small patches of forest. While indicative of the conservation challenges of sprawling development, this open habitat can make for very dynamic birding as waves of bird action deliver rewards in quick succession.

Starting off at km 6, I find a pullout and climb a side road on the right hand side. A flock of Taiwan Scimitar Babblers (#10) noisily chatter. One of the site’s specialties, a Striated Prinia (#11) calls from an open perch at the top of a stem of grass. A tiny yellow Rufous-capped Babbler (#12) flits in and out of a tangle. Then a Dusky Fulvetta (#13) scampers across the base of a tree trunk. A phenomenal start.

Time now to circle back and check out a spot for Taiwan Hwamei, an increasingly tricky species due to interbreeding with the introduced Chinese Hwamei. The key feature to check for is any trace of the white eyebrow for which the Chinese Hwamei was named, yet which is absent in its Taiwan cousin. (In fact, the literal meaning of Hwamei in Chinese is painted eyebrow.)

Unfortunately, the first bird I track down by sound is a clear hybrid – its white eyebrow is so prominent that it could almost pass as a pure Chinese, but it lacks the bold eye ring of that species. Sensing that its presence would reduce the odds of finding any pure Taiwan Hwamei in the area, I push ahead.

By 10 am, things are really starting to heat up and activity lagging, so I opt to head up higher into cooler mistier climes. Looking over a ridge, I’m thrilled to pick out the speedy flight of a group of three swifts. Their white vents and tapered tails clearly identify them as needletails but Taiwan actually has two species to consider: the dark throats and pale backs of these birds indicate they are the more numerous Silver-backed (#14) rather than the White-throated that I’d seen months earlier on their wintering grounds in Australia.

A small group of White-bellied Pigeons (#15) perch quietly in the upper reaches of a tree below. Amazingly, the height matches up perfectly so that the canopy is at eye level for a photo op.

White-bellied Pigeon

Km 15 Hengliu Creek

Target: Brown Dipper

A well known stakeout here for Brown Dipper would be particularly memorable for me, as it would complete my set of five World Dipper species. This uniquely adapted family hunts for invertebrates in fast flowing mountain water.

First on the scene scanning below is the similarly river-loving Plumbeous Redstart, pumping its tail like a miniature Phoebe. Then turning around I pick out the Dipper (#16) right on the ledge above the falls. The first of many Steere’s Liochichlas (#17) passes through the canopy.

Brown Dipper

Km 23: Broadleaved forest

Climbing from Hengliu, I begin to enter the undisturbed broadleaved forest that makes Dasyueshan special. Unlike most of Taiwan’s mountain ranges, there are just two service areas at km 43 and 50, with none of the sprawling development you see elsewhere in the island.

A large parking lot at km 23 offers a good place to sample some of the birdlife at this elevation. The abundant bird here is the White-eared Sibia (#18), a form of Laughingthrush which travels in large flocks and whose voice is a persistent melody.

White-eared Sibia

Also feeding in low feeding flocks are the titmouse lookalike Taiwan Yuhinas (#19), Green-backed (#20) and Black-throated Tits and a pair of Rufous-faced Warblers (#21). It’s amazing how much higher midday activity is in higher elevations than in muggy lowlands.

Black-throated Tit

A whistling pair of Gray-chinned Minivets fly by overhead and a brilliant blue Vivid Niltava of the endemic race perches on a bare branch. But the best is yet to come when an inquisitive roving flock of Rufous-crowned Laughingthrushes (#22), an endemic only found at Dasyueshan of the sites on my programme, drop down near the road to check out what’s going on. Breathtaking activity, but it’s now time to move up the mountain and check out the accommodation!

Gray-chinned Minivet

Vivid Niltava

Km 25-43: Towards Anmashan Lodge

Near km 30, a beautiful male Swinhoe’s Pheasant (#23), if somewhat waterlogged from the downpour, forages fearlessly on the roadside allowing lengthy study.

Swinhoe’s Pheasant

Then an iridescent blue Taiwan Whistling-Thrush (#24) lands atop a roadside fence post.

By mid-afternoon, I make it to the park entrance, where I pay the $250 NTD ($11) entrance fee and opt to head directly to the Anmashan Lodge at km 43 to check in. By this time, the pace of the rain has picked up into a heavy drumbeat making birding near impossible.

It turns out the lodge proper is closed for renovations so I am able to pay for a cabin for two nights at the visitor centre. Price is $2400 NTD ($105 CAD) per night. Electric blankets are provided because it can get quite cool at night!

Km 48-50: up on the Summit Road

With rain still ongoing I decide to check out the summit road to see if I can find Taiwan’s other pheasant, the nationally revered Mikado, which is featured on the $1000 bill. No luck at the old km 48 stakeout, which prior to the ban on feeding birds had been a reliable site for this species.

Then I was eager to head up to the summit parking lot to have a first crack at Dasyueshan’s suite of 14 high altitude specialties. Unfortunately, fog had completely socked in the sky and I could barely see the tops of the trees.

Reluctantly, I returned to the lodge for an evening walk with less fog. Here I added a low sitting Ferruginous Flycatcher (#25) and rushed back at 6:30 for the evening buffet. While the food was a barely passable mix of sour oily vegetables and overcooked meat, it was still a filling way to finish a super 2nd day.